Floor levelling before laminate or PVC
Levelling exists for one reason: a new floor takes the exact shape of whatever is underneath it. PVC is thin and flexible, so it telegraphs every bump and every old tile joint. Laminate bridges small imperfections but creaks and eventually fails at the click joints when the base undulates. Whether levelling is needed is decided by measuring with a straightedge, not by looking.
What levelling involves
Levelling means applying a thin self-smoothing compound over the existing floor to create a flat, sound surface. The job normally includes stripping the old covering and adhesive residue, checking the base for moisture and loose areas, filling cracks and joints, priming, pouring, and sanding back any high spots once cured.
Where height differences are large or the base is unstable, a levelling layer alone is not the answer and a proper screed or a board system over the existing floor is the correct route. A fitter who quotes levelling without assessing the base has skipped a step.
The main stages
1. Measuring and assessment
A two-metre straightedge shows how much deviation there is and where. At the same time the floor is checked for moisture, cracks, stability and spring. PVC has tighter requirements than laminate, and manufacturers state the flatness needed for the warranty to stand.
2. Clearing the base
Old coverings, adhesive residue, paint and loose material come off. If there is old sheet vinyl or old adhesive in a pre-1994 building, have it surveyed for asbestos before touching it. Removal is then a job for a certified company; never sand or scrape suspect material yourself.
3. Preparation
Cracks and joints are filled, perimeters are taped, and a primer suited to the base is applied. Timber calls for a different system than concrete or anhydrite.
4. Pouring and spreading
The compound is mixed, poured in bands, spread and de-aerated with a spiked roller. Each room is done in one continuous pass, because interruptions leave visible transitions.
5. Curing and verification
Drying time depends on thickness, product and the indoor climate. Laminate or PVC should only go down after a moisture reading confirms the floor is ready. Laying too early is one of the most common causes of lifting boards and PVC planks that release from the adhesive.
Amsterdam-specific considerations
Many properties have timber floors on joists that flex and move with the seasons. Poured compound applied straight onto loose boards will crack; the deck has to be stabilised first, typically with a board layer or a fibre-reinforced system.
Settlement makes floors slope toward the middle of a room or toward a wall, sometimes by centimetres across a single space. That is a different problem from smoothing a millimetre and calls for a different build-up. Moisture matters too: on a ground floor with a poorly ventilated crawl space, the moisture load has to be dealt with before any floor goes down. And keep the staircase in mind, since bags of compound and sheet material still have to get upstairs.
In an apartment, check what the owners association requires for impact sound. Those rules influence which underlay is permitted, and therefore the total build-up height you have to accommodate at doorways.
What drives the price
Levelling is almost always quoted per square metre, with preparation itemised separately and often a minimum charge per visit. The variables:
- Required thickness, which governs how much material is consumed.
- Base type: concrete, anhydrite and timber need different primers and products.
- Amount of preparation: removing old adhesive, vinyl or tiles.
- Flatness tolerance demanded by the chosen floor; PVC asks more than laminate.
- Area and layout. Several small rooms and thresholds cost more per metre than one open space.
- Access and how many bags have to be carried up.
- Asbestos survey where old coverings are involved, always a separate item.
Questions to ask the fitter
- How much deviation did you measure, and over what span?
- What flatness does my chosen floor require, and will levelling alone achieve it?
- Is the base stable enough, or does it need boarding first?
- Which compound and primer will you use, and why those?
- How long must it cure, and will you take a moisture reading before laying?
- Does the price include removing the old floor and taking the waste away?
- How will the added height affect doors and thresholds?
Common mistakes
- Laying too soon. Residual moisture attacks both the adhesive and the floor.
- Levelling over a springy timber floor without stabilising it first.
- Skipping the primer. The layer then fails to bond and lifts away in sheets.
- Ignoring damp. On a damp ground floor, every covering fails eventually.
- Levelling only the living room and forgetting the hallway, leaving an uneven junction.
- Stripping old vinyl yourself in an older building before asbestos has been ruled out.
Frequently asked questions
Does PVC always need a levelled base?
Not always, but more often than people expect. Because PVC is thin it follows the substrate, so even minor undulations and old tile joints eventually show through. A straightedge measurement settles it.
And laminate?
Laminate is more forgiving, but a wavy base produces open click joints, creaking and wear along the seams. Where height differences are obvious, levelling remains the cheaper option over the life of the floor.
How long does levelling compound take to dry?
It varies considerably with product and thickness and is affected by temperature and ventilation. Rely on the manufacturer's stated figures combined with a moisture reading rather than a rule of thumb.
Can I level over existing tiles?
Usually yes, provided the tiles are firmly bonded, degreased, and keyed or treated with a suitable primer. Loose tiles have to come out first.
Will my floor end up higher?
Yes, by the compound thickness plus the underlay and finish. Work this out beforehand so doors, thresholds and the junction with the staircase still function.