How to choose a tiler in Amsterdam
The best signal when choosing a tiler is what they say about the substrate. A professional talks about flatness, adhesion, moisture and movement joints before talking about tiles. Insist on a site visit, ask for photographs of comparable work, and expect a quotation that separates preparation, materials and finishing rather than one lump figure.
What a tiler actually does
Tiling is not simply sticking tiles to a wall. The trade starts with assessing and preparing the substrate so it is flat, dry, stable and clean. Then comes setting out the pattern, applying sealing tape and waterproofing in wet areas, bedding the tiles, grouting, and finally sealing corners and junctions with silicone.
That preparation decides whether the work lasts a decade or fails within a year. In Amsterdam it matters more than usual: timber floors that flex, walls that are nowhere near square, and cracking caused by settlement are the norm rather than the exception in older stock. A tiler who spots those conditions before starting is the one worth hiring.
How to run the selection
1. Define the job first
A natural stone bathroom floor, a kitchen splashback and a balcony surface call for different experience. Say which tile format you have in mind: large-format tiles on a wooden floor is a different proposition from small wall tiles.
2. Get three quotes from one identical brief
Otherwise you cannot compare them. Provide area, tile type and size, current substrate, the age of the building, and whether demolition is needed.
3. Have them see it in person
A quote given without a visit is guesswork. A professional wants to look at the substrate, check it with a straightedge and know what sits under the existing tiles.
4. Check references and registration
Ask for addresses or photos from similar Amsterdam properties. Verify their business registration, confirm they carry liability insurance, and ask how they handle warranty claims.
5. Put the agreement in writing
Scope, schedule, payment stages and how variations will be handled. Never pay the full amount up front.
What drives the price
Tiling is usually quoted per square metre with preparation and materials listed separately, or hourly for small repairs. The main factors:
- Tile size and material. Large-format, natural stone and mosaic all take more labour than standard ceramic.
- Laying pattern. Straight courses are quicker than herringbone, diagonal or a continuous grout line across rooms.
- Substrate condition. Levelling, a tile backer board over timber, or extra primer coats are separate line items.
- Wet area or not. Waterproofing and sealing tape belong in a shower, not behind a hob.
- Cutting. Numerous corners, niches, downlights and pipe penetrations raise the effective rate per metre.
- Access. A narrow staircase can decide which tile format can physically reach the flat at all.
Questions to ask
- What is your read on this substrate, and what has to happen first?
- Is levelling or priming included, or is that an extra?
- Which adhesive, grout and waterproofing system will you use, and why that one?
- How will you detail the corners and the junctions with the sanitary ware?
- Have you laid this tile format over a timber floor before?
- Who removes offcuts and packaging?
- What warranty do you give, and what does it exclude?
Common mistakes when choosing
- Comparing only the rate per square metre. The cheapest quote is usually the one that omitted the preparation.
- Skipping the site visit. The argument about the substrate then happens mid-job.
- Buying materials before the tiler has seen the room. A tile format or thickness that does not suit your substrate is expensive to discover late.
- Paying everything in advance. Tie payments to visible progress instead.
- Not agreeing who connects the sanitary ware. Work falls through the gap between tiler and plumber otherwise.
- Judging on finished photos alone. A crisp surface says nothing about what is underneath it.
Frequently asked questions
Should the tiler also do the levelling?
Many do it themselves and some subcontract it. What matters is that the quotation states explicitly who is responsible and to what tolerance, particularly with large-format tiles that leave almost no room for error.
Can tiles be laid on an old wooden floor?
Often yes, but not directly. The floor must be stable and strong enough, and a backer board or decoupling layer is normally required. Where load capacity is in doubt, have the structure assessed by a qualified professional first, especially in older buildings.
Do I need permission from the owners association?
In apartments, the deed of division or house rules frequently set acoustic requirements for hard floor finishes. Check that before ordering materials rather than after.
How do I judge the quality at handover?
Flat, fully filled grout lines, consistent joint width, no hollow sound when tiles are tapped, clean corners, silicone in one even line, and cuts placed where they are least visible.
How far ahead should I book?
Good tilers in Amsterdam are typically booked weeks out. Arrange the site visit well before the strip-out so demolition, plumbing and tiling can be sequenced without gaps.